Currently an AutoTech Student to update to electronic controls. Target is for a 2yr degree. The purpose of the is for it to rev up fast, not for it to rev real hi in rpm's. A friend of mine had a tubbed S with a It had stock crank, X rods, aftermarket alluminum heads, It was dynoed at like horses and ran low 11's. He shifted at rpm's and never broke anything.
It was a real good motor. CRW I was blessed with the body of a God! To bad it was Buddah. The nice thing about more cubes, like a is that you can make the same HP but at a lower rpm and can run lighter valve springs and don't have to worry about valve train longevity as much. I would like a rpm 4 sp car though for fun The cars I've seen have all run good.
Doug Nova 6. Is there a place to download those computer dynos or do you have to buy them?? Are there any other destroking combos for the ?? Both the rods and the crank will only set you back bucks all together. As for other combos you can stick a 3" crank or a 3.
Keep the 3. Th tranny. Dual flowmaster exaust, r4 and " drop coming soon. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.
It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion. Pictured below are our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
Included with all our sbc engines. The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail.
The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body. If your engine is equipped with the 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing 5 qt. The 5 qt.
We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. The higher capacity 7 quart oil pan is an optional upgrade on some of our engines.
To be clear on what we're saying, we would like to see you add right at 6. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly.
Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines. Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application. Studded Mini Nut Set. We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers.
The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts.
Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine. Listed below are more of the items installed on the outside of the engine, which makes it a "Turn Key" engine.
Billet Aluminum Breather set. If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend using an exhaust evac. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best.
The exhaust evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi-burned byproducts from the engine oil and combustion process.
After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup may be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup. We also offer a vacuum pump system for the ultimate in crankcase pressure control.
If you do decide to use an exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies, must be used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several other brands on the market such as Corsa, Borla, and Bullet. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose.
The inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound. Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine, especially if you have chosen cam choice 2, 3 or 4.
In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. More info. We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines. As you can see in the picture below, these timing pointers have a glove like fit. High volume satin aluminum water pump with an aluminum impeller.
The Edelbrock wires have a 50 ohm impedance per foot rating and are 8. As you may know, plug wires come in many different grades. These wires are on the high end of the scale. Most of the lower grade wires on the market have a much higher level of resistance and are usually only 8. The lower the ohm rating the better. The plug wires are included but not installed on the engine. Due to the many different style headers being used, we will send the universal wires with the engine for custom fitment.
The wires are available in red or black. If your vehicle is a pre 75 model that came with a point style distributor, you may encounter firewall clearance issues with the MSD HEI distributor. If you think you are going to encounter this problem, then you should upgrade to the MSD Pro-Billet distributor.
This unit will clear any firewall. We offer these systems in our other listings. We strongly recommend it. The failure rate is near non existent. We find the advance curve characteristics also to be more in suitable for street rod engines. We have also noticed that the degree span from initial to total timing is a slightly closer, approx. This allows the engine to have more initial timing when operating at low speed without the use of the vacuum advance.
We include a heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build. For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend our extra deep dish pistons with the 75cc heads regardless of the vehicle.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Many vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have.
All of our engine builders have been in the engine machining and engine building line of work for their entire working lives.
Their ages range from 38 to We have dyno tested the original creation of this engine with every cam and intake choice available extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost.
The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel. We offer this engine with selected upgrades and options. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value.
Note: The upgrade prices below are subject to change. Refer to the actual upgrade listing for the exact price of these upgrades. The changes are usually very small if any. See our other listings. This engine includes a flexplate for automatic transmission use at no additional cost. When purchasing a flywheel for manual transmission use, be sure to know what tooth count you need. There are two sizes available, and it is of the utmost importance to select the flywheel that is correct for this engine.
There are several factors that must be addressed when choosing your correct flywheel. The tooth count must be correct. This is very important. There are two sizes available, and it is the bellhousing size on the transmission that determines this.
Another important factor is if the engine your purchasing is internally balanced often referred to as neutral balanced or if it is an externally balanced engine, often referred to as externally balanced. Big block and small block engines will also have a different bolt pattern in most cases. To sum it up, there are three important factors to look for when selecting the correct flywheel, tooth count, int.
The Ram brand flywheels we offer are very high quality. See our other listings for a complete line of the Ram brand SFI flywheels. SFI damper: Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels.
The SFI certification is laser etched into the side. Damper failure rates are much higher on engines using non-sfi damper coupled with hp ratings exceeding and turn rpm or higher.
We strongly recommend this upgrade for those running hard. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store.
Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades. Race balancing: This is for those who want the engine to operate virtually vibration free at high rpm. Extends engine life and frees up a few more horse power.
This is a somewhat labor intensive procedure and is not required, but the feel of an absolutely vibration free engine at high rpm is desirable by many. The standard balance job that is included with this assembly at no extra charge is certainly sufficient. An ultra smooth engine at high rpm has a noticeable feel and sound to it. If you do not opt for this upgrade, the assembly will still be fully balanced. We spend a good hour and a half doing the regular balance work, and it will certainly meet your needs.
ARP rod bolts: This is one upgrade that we find to be very valuable. The rod bolts are most likely to fail under hard use, moreso than the rod itself. When a rod bolt fails during high RPM, total engine destruction is usually the result.
The ARP rod bolts are a very good upgrade, in our opinion. We actually have few, if any, problems with the regular ARP bolts, but those who run hard always upgrade to the ARP rod bolts. The ARP rod bolts also torque at a higher number, and this increased clamping force is also a factor in keeping the big end of the rod stable and true to size.
The ARP bolts are installed in the rods and this upgrade is only available with the Competition rod upgrade. This is the ultimate upgrade for those wanting to run hard. Nos, blowers, turbos, are not an issue with this crank.
Even without such power adders, this Crank offers great protection under the most severe conditions. This upgrade also comes with the HP high Performance King bearings. Should you decide to run power adders in the future, this would be essential.
The fatigue life of the crank over the cast nodular is also greatly extended. We do offer this upgrade as part of many of our assemblies in some of our other listings.
They have the key words, "fully forged," in the title. Includes rear water outlets, two distributor clamp locations and nitrous bosses. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. This has become a very popular upgrade on many of our engines. For those not wanting to deal with the potential quirks of a carburetor, this is the way to go.
Drivability becomes greatly improved over a carb. Startup and warm-up are also greatly improved. Tuning stays spot on. These systems make it very easy to tweak the tuning on your engine to better serve your application.
Our engine room crew has found the Holley Sniper system to be a very straightforward setup. Some of our customers have requested the Fitech system, and we find them to be an inferior product in many ways to the Holley Sniper system.
The customer service offered by Fitech also has been a very poor experience for us. There is no comparison in the way the two systems function, nor in the way they are set up.
The Holley system has a slightly higher cost, but is well worth it, in our very strong opinion. Our company founder, Skip White, stated that he has no problems with running a carb on a street rod engine, but the ability to tune the engine to perfection and the fact that fuel metering is so perfect with the EFI system has changed how he thinks an engine should receive its fuel and air. The difference in drive between the two is vast, to say the least.
Cost for this upgrade is calculated by taking the retail difference between the carburetor that comes with this engine and the retail cost of the Holley Sniper EFI System. This is a great value with many benefits, in our opinion. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature.
It is then run for approx. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT exhaust gas temp readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound.
At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power.
We usually have to change carb. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit. Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run at its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean.
This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value that we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above.
An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process.
We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning.
When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still occur, but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us as the seller and for the customer.
Once all machining has been completed and you have received all the parts, you are ready to assemble the engine. Mount the engine block to the engine stand and organize all engine components for assembly. Test assemble the engine short block. Carefully follow all assembly instructions, procedures and torque values. Measure all clearances and check for interference or binding. Stop assembly if any binding is noticed, identify the cause and remedy the issue. Install the oil pan, timing cover and other sheet metal at the last stage of assembly, taking care to be sure that nothing was overlooked or omitted and that nothing was left inside unintentionally such as tools or miscellaneous parts.
Moss Strohem has a background in business and finance, and an avid interest in youth sports, health, nutrition and physiology. Sponsored Links. You get the added benefits of the big bore and improved breathing from unshroudng the valves while maintaing the short stroke for revinn' the snot out of it.
Join Date Aug Posts It is pretty mild hp at the wheels , but it runs very well, and I'm happy with it. It could be me, but it feels 'punchier' than stroker motors I've been around, even with a heavy flywheel. I agree with the previous post that you can rev the snot out of them with the right parts which I don't have!
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