Already have an Outside Account? You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details. You come to a rappel station and upon inspecting the webbing notice that there are no cuts or wear marks, and that the nylon feels soft — almost like new.
But, the sun and elements have bleached the sling bone white. If you have any doubt about your ropes integrity, get a new one and turn your old one into a rope rug. Gear collection of tradprincess. There's no such thing as too much gear. A post shared by WeighMyRack. Shoes: Climbing shoes can make or break a day of climbing. The old approach of buying shoes that are too small for your feet no longer applies most of the time because shoe technology has improved.
If you intend to buy a climbing shoe that is too small, be sure it will stretch so your feet are comfortable. Of course, this depends on your experience level and the type of climbing you are using the shoe for.
There are two ways to up your footwork game: to purchase new shoes or to resole your existing ones. There are upsides to both, but the best time to do either is when your shoe is not performing optimally. Many climbers go for the resole, but get this done before you wear through the rand to keep the price of a resole down.
Tips: The cleaner your footwork, the less you will drag your shoe and wear through its rubber. And only wear your shoes for climbing, bring flip flops to walk around in between climbs. Most climbing biners are made of aluminum allow consisting of aluminum and zinc. Steel biners are used for industrial applications and are heavier. After production, biners go through a tensile testing to be sure they can handle the minimum of 20kN or 2, kilograms along the major axis with a closed gate and 7kN or kilograms along minor axis and major axis with open gate.
There are other tests for worn biners and gate functions. Biners are designed for different purposes and you want the best biner for the job. The parts of a biner include: gate standard, wire, straight vs. The types of locking mechanisms include screw, twist and magnet.
Biners can break if they are not used properly: if the nose gets caught on a bolt or if the biner is cross-loaded. Using biners takes practice and experience. Tips: Wash your biners in citrus-based bike cleaners and let it dry to help remove dirt. And if you come across fixed biners at an anchor that are worn through, replace with new ones. Cams and Nuts: Cams and nuts go through a lot of abuse, from catching falls to being thrown around in your gear bag.
They are designed to be strong, but not invincible and are often damaged. They come in dozens of styles, shapes and weights and knowing when to retire old or damaged cams and nuts is paramount. Any bend in the axle of a cam can compromise its strength, even if it appears to be working well. My biggest concern with using Spectra slings is that it has much greater specific stiffness than nylon and essentially no permanent stretch at failure.
This equates to less energy storage and way less energy absorbtion capacity than nylon, so Spectra slings can generate dangerously high loads if shockloaded with minimal or no rope in the system. This is an issue for anchor material and potentially slings on the first piece after the anchor. I believe that several companies including DMM have studied this issue of late. If I'm using a spectra sling as the primary anchor material, I always try to incorporate the rope independently for redundancy in case the anchor gets shock loaded for some reason.
Just my 2 cents, YMMV. Great information, it's a useful supplement to things I'm reading elsewhere. Thank you! Regarding long-term storage with no use, nylon naturally degrades over time, enough that most manufacturers recommend retiring any lead ropes 10 years after date of manufacture or 5 years after purchase, whichever comes first. UHMWPE also degrades over time but I believe at a much slower rate, though I can't find my reference right now without being on a school computer.
Dyneema is often quoted as being 10x as strong as steel but the second half of the statement is ommited. Dyneema has a 10x higher tensile strength than steel when you compare equal masses of the materials - not if you compare a skinny climbing sling to a large girder or I-beam.
The same principle applies when comparing climbing slings. This is simply because there is significantly less material in the Dyneema slings than the nylon slings currently on the market. Typically when people compare climbing slings they are looking at 1" That is comparing apples to oranges or at least pears.
Matrax is right Spectra has a higher UV index vs Nylon. This is backed up by suppliers specs, my own use over a 10 year period. My own pulltesting of ten year old samples vs nylon. And its dramatically witnessed within the sailing community As reargds "shelf life" of Spectra I test spectra that has been exposed to all differnet conditions over different age periods. This then becomes your weak link if exposure is the issue.
Spectra thread may be used but is not that common for several reasons. Spectra webs for climbing are generally a blend of Nylon and Spectra to balance out the good and bad properties of pure spectra fiber Nylon fabric and thread hold there grip better due to there higher friction coefficient Tugboat, that's interesting. I believe this has been noted by others as well. I found this independent research paper testing various "high strength" cordages in various ways on another forum awhile ago.
Good hard data. Their testing is more extreme than real-world conditions, but so are the standard UIAA tests. Scroll down to the last chart, it's pretty interesting. Nylon does not. No info on Dyneema since this study pre-dates the introduction of that material. Sun-fading and exposure to salt water was not part of their testing. As regards jfs test results Sometimes these variables are obvious, sometimes not. For example I then pull over minimum 9mm pins.
Now, while these slings may have seen much environmental exposure, they were not "climbing" use slings and so may not have see the flexural exposure that your mammut's did. Most of my products have not seen repetitive bending and flexing Some studies have found that newer genrations of Spectra have less of a flex fatigue problem vs older spectra generations And they have also found that initial loss in strength occurs at a certain rate, and then the loss decreases exponentially.
I recentley set my shop back up, and put my pull testing facility back in action
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